Crete |
September 2019 |
Chania
Getting to Chania was originally going to be by bus, the bus stop was about a 10-minute walk from Minos Village, however having waited 15 minutes for the bus to drive straight past full, we waved down a taxi. Taxi ride was about 20 minutes and cost 15€, much nicer than potentially standing on a bus for longer.
We walked down to the harbour, down a street lined with shops and more streets going off in opposite directions. The harbour is beautiful, shops and restaurants all the way around, with a beautiful outlook. Walking around the harbour towards the opening and you get a view of how far the walk down to the lighthouse on the end of the harbour wall is.
We walked down to the harbour, down a street lined with shops and more streets going off in opposite directions. The harbour is beautiful, shops and restaurants all the way around, with a beautiful outlook. Walking around the harbour towards the opening and you get a view of how far the walk down to the lighthouse on the end of the harbour wall is.
Returning, we walked around the other side of the harbour, again more shops and restaurants. We chose not to walk right around and along the harbour wall, it's a long walk, instead we returned up the street we came down. As we ventured down the streets, we found it was a labyrinth of charming shops and restaurants/cafes, one narrow busy street was just one bag shop after another, selling a wide range of handbag’s, rucksacks, wallets and purses, in a variety of colours, but predominantly in leather.
We chose to get the bus back, thinking we'd at least have a chance of getting a seat, the bus station is easy to find, not far from the aforementioned main street of shops (the pictures below show the bus station with a blue star and the main shop/restaurant area I refer to is above and right of the green circle in the middle). We did get a seat when the bus arrived, but it was packed, they clearly don't have the same laws as we do in the UK. There's a ticket person who somehow manages to squeeze through everyone to make sure people pay, it cost us 1.80€ each.
Rustic Garden Greek Tapas
As the name suggests, this restaurant is outdoor, with tables laid out in and amongst trees. The tables are generously spaced apart, so you can't hear the next tables conversation, but there's still a nice atmosphere. We visited in September one evening, so it was coming dark when we sat down, the way they have lit up the area is just perfect and creates a wonderful relaxed environment. With all that said, the food was beautiful, I loved the mushrooms and strangely we ordered bread extra to dip and we both commented that even the bread was perfect, my favourite restaurant of our holiday and highly recommend you visit.
As the name suggests, this restaurant is outdoor, with tables laid out in and amongst trees. The tables are generously spaced apart, so you can't hear the next tables conversation, but there's still a nice atmosphere. We visited in September one evening, so it was coming dark when we sat down, the way they have lit up the area is just perfect and creates a wonderful relaxed environment. With all that said, the food was beautiful, I loved the mushrooms and strangely we ordered bread extra to dip and we both commented that even the bread was perfect, my favourite restaurant of our holiday and highly recommend you visit.
Agia Marina
One evening after we’d left Rustic Garden, we walked down to the main road, to see what else Agia Marina had to offer. On the main road there were several more restaurants, many of which looked nice, however being so close to the road, none of them had the calm, relaxed environment that Rustic Garden had. There were also a mix of shops, several more bag shops, like those we'd seen in Chania and unlike the UK, they were still open after 9pm. It had a livelier vibe, just a shame about the proximity to the road, however we did see some signs of possibly more restaurants down nearer the beach, but decided we'd return for a better look during the day.
Walking back to the hotel, it’s quite nice that you walk away from the main road, into what feels like a quiet village and around the corner you have this junction. Just a minute’s walk from Minis Village, this offers more restaurants, there's Horiatiko Taverna, which is on two corners of the junction, looked nice and Olivi on the other, creating a nice atmosphere/buzz to the area.
One evening after we’d left Rustic Garden, we walked down to the main road, to see what else Agia Marina had to offer. On the main road there were several more restaurants, many of which looked nice, however being so close to the road, none of them had the calm, relaxed environment that Rustic Garden had. There were also a mix of shops, several more bag shops, like those we'd seen in Chania and unlike the UK, they were still open after 9pm. It had a livelier vibe, just a shame about the proximity to the road, however we did see some signs of possibly more restaurants down nearer the beach, but decided we'd return for a better look during the day.
Walking back to the hotel, it’s quite nice that you walk away from the main road, into what feels like a quiet village and around the corner you have this junction. Just a minute’s walk from Minis Village, this offers more restaurants, there's Horiatiko Taverna, which is on two corners of the junction, looked nice and Olivi on the other, creating a nice atmosphere/buzz to the area.
Falassarna
We are not “beach” people, we like to go see the nice beaches, but are unlikely to rent to rent a sunbed, we prefer to have a look around the village/town it's part of, however Falassarna was always being recommended worth a visit when researching. The drive into Falassarna wasn't as bad as it looked, the roads from the highway do weave down, with several hairpin bends, but if you drive at a sensible speed it's fine.
There are a few roads to drive down to the beach, the first appears to offer beach parking, whereas we chose the second and parked up behind the Kyma Fotis cafe, so there was a bit of a steep slope to walk down and then back up again.
Getting onto the beach there's a few wooden walkways, one with a slope down to make it accessible for pushchairs. At the end of the walkways are a sea of sun loungers, walk through these 3 or 4 rows and the sea is right there, down a sandy slope.
It's a large beach, with plenty of sun loungers and when we visited it was quite breezy, so there were also some surfer instructors training a group. We walked along the sand for a little while and then back to the Kyma Fotis cafe for a drink, for us there was nothing else, but it was worth the drive to spend an hour
We are not “beach” people, we like to go see the nice beaches, but are unlikely to rent to rent a sunbed, we prefer to have a look around the village/town it's part of, however Falassarna was always being recommended worth a visit when researching. The drive into Falassarna wasn't as bad as it looked, the roads from the highway do weave down, with several hairpin bends, but if you drive at a sensible speed it's fine.
There are a few roads to drive down to the beach, the first appears to offer beach parking, whereas we chose the second and parked up behind the Kyma Fotis cafe, so there was a bit of a steep slope to walk down and then back up again.
Getting onto the beach there's a few wooden walkways, one with a slope down to make it accessible for pushchairs. At the end of the walkways are a sea of sun loungers, walk through these 3 or 4 rows and the sea is right there, down a sandy slope.
It's a large beach, with plenty of sun loungers and when we visited it was quite breezy, so there were also some surfer instructors training a group. We walked along the sand for a little while and then back to the Kyma Fotis cafe for a drink, for us there was nothing else, but it was worth the drive to spend an hour
Kissamos
It's easy to think Kissamos isn't worth stopping and some reviews said they would, however we didn't and I’m glad we didn't. We drove along the main road on the way to Falassarna in the morning, but on the way back we turned off and parked on what I would class as the high street. There wasn't much of interest to us along the high street, however about halfway along there's a road leading down to the seafront (there is a steep slope). Reaching the seafront, we arrived on the promenade, where there is a beautiful view out to sea. We decided to stop for lunch at Babea (also known as Vavel).
Granted there may be other places of higher priority and it depends on your plans, for us, it was worth the stop.
It's easy to think Kissamos isn't worth stopping and some reviews said they would, however we didn't and I’m glad we didn't. We drove along the main road on the way to Falassarna in the morning, but on the way back we turned off and parked on what I would class as the high street. There wasn't much of interest to us along the high street, however about halfway along there's a road leading down to the seafront (there is a steep slope). Reaching the seafront, we arrived on the promenade, where there is a beautiful view out to sea. We decided to stop for lunch at Babea (also known as Vavel).
Granted there may be other places of higher priority and it depends on your plans, for us, it was worth the stop.
Lake Kournas
The first thing you see as you arrive at the lake is the shops of colourful plates, pots and wall hangings. We parked in the first car park on the right, the shop owner told us it was free, but when we left, he'd put s sign up “parking 2€ all day”. It's only a short walk to from this car park down to the lake, again passing more shops with their colourful products. At the bottom there's the option to go onto the small beach, hire a pedalo or there's several restaurants to choose from, most of them with a lake view. We arrived early, so decided to stop for breakfast at Oneiro, to our surprise, they had their pet rabbit sat on one of the tables, a budgie in a cage and just off the floor an open container with a small tortoise/turtle in.
The first thing you see as you arrive at the lake is the shops of colourful plates, pots and wall hangings. We parked in the first car park on the right, the shop owner told us it was free, but when we left, he'd put s sign up “parking 2€ all day”. It's only a short walk to from this car park down to the lake, again passing more shops with their colourful products. At the bottom there's the option to go onto the small beach, hire a pedalo or there's several restaurants to choose from, most of them with a lake view. We arrived early, so decided to stop for breakfast at Oneiro, to our surprise, they had their pet rabbit sat on one of the tables, a budgie in a cage and just off the floor an open container with a small tortoise/turtle in.
Rethymno
We followed the recommendation to park near the old fortress, however we couldn’t get in any of the bays as we drove in, so we parked in a large car park near the harbour.
We followed the recommendation to park near the old fortress, however we couldn’t get in any of the bays as we drove in, so we parked in a large car park near the harbour.
The harbour area is beautiful, with it's ancient harbour wall and lighthouse. We headed into the town and entered the maze of charming streets, full of shops, cafes and restaurants. Walking around these narrow streets, you do have to listen out, as scooters are up and down them, the convenient way to get around.
I really liked Chania harbour area, but I prefer Rethymno town, it has a much nicer atmosphere and a beautiful old charm.
Sisi
For us, it was all about the harbour area, where there are several restaurants, most looking out over the water. You can also get to the other side, but you must walk part way along the roadside and down a path, which appears to be through the middle of a beautiful, shaded hotel restaurant. Once at the other side of the harbour, there’s a small beach and harbour wall with beautiful views back to the town and out to sea.
For us, it was all about the harbour area, where there are several restaurants, most looking out over the water. You can also get to the other side, but you must walk part way along the roadside and down a path, which appears to be through the middle of a beautiful, shaded hotel restaurant. Once at the other side of the harbour, there’s a small beach and harbour wall with beautiful views back to the town and out to sea.
Stalis
Having just left Sisi, we headed in to Stalis through Malia and they almost merge into 1 long high street. As we are finding with the places we had visited so far, there's no beach front promenade, all the action is on the high street and to get to the beach, it's mainly via a restaurant. We stopped at Dianomeas for lunch, which from the roadside was nothing, but it opened out into a nice restaurant on the beach, which was literally full of sunbeds. Back on the high street, it's a mix of shops, restaurants, car/scooter hire shops and sadly in my opinion, not as interesting, but great if you want to lay in the sun all day.
Having just left Sisi, we headed in to Stalis through Malia and they almost merge into 1 long high street. As we are finding with the places we had visited so far, there's no beach front promenade, all the action is on the high street and to get to the beach, it's mainly via a restaurant. We stopped at Dianomeas for lunch, which from the roadside was nothing, but it opened out into a nice restaurant on the beach, which was literally full of sunbeds. Back on the high street, it's a mix of shops, restaurants, car/scooter hire shops and sadly in my opinion, not as interesting, but great if you want to lay in the sun all day.
Koutouloufari
As we were stopping at Asterias, Koutouloufari was on our doorstep, another inland resort, with several shops and restaurants. During the day it was quiet, but at night all the restaurants were awake and trying to encourage you to eat at theirs. The difference between Koutouloufari and say Stalis, was mostly the layout, Koutouloufari has a charm about it, it is sort of one main street, yet because it's not a simple flat road, it was more appealing.
Most of the restaurants we visited on an evening were in Koutouloufari and we'd chosen them based on earlier research before leaving the UK. It’s always a bit awkward when they are trying to get you in, but you know it's not on your list. What was nice, was how the lady/gentleman who was trying to encourage you in would thank you and shake your hand as you left the restaurant. But then remember us days later, for example the lady at Patriko who would wave at us and wish us good night or the lady who runs Mezes, who also has a shop, saw us go past after we’d been for a little wonder and even though she was talking to someone, she also waved, wished us a good night and a good holiday, closely followed by (we assume her partner) who saw us as we went back past the restaurant, which makes you feel like they appreciate you or maybe they're just doing it thinking your more likely to go back another night.
As we were stopping at Asterias, Koutouloufari was on our doorstep, another inland resort, with several shops and restaurants. During the day it was quiet, but at night all the restaurants were awake and trying to encourage you to eat at theirs. The difference between Koutouloufari and say Stalis, was mostly the layout, Koutouloufari has a charm about it, it is sort of one main street, yet because it's not a simple flat road, it was more appealing.
Most of the restaurants we visited on an evening were in Koutouloufari and we'd chosen them based on earlier research before leaving the UK. It’s always a bit awkward when they are trying to get you in, but you know it's not on your list. What was nice, was how the lady/gentleman who was trying to encourage you in would thank you and shake your hand as you left the restaurant. But then remember us days later, for example the lady at Patriko who would wave at us and wish us good night or the lady who runs Mezes, who also has a shop, saw us go past after we’d been for a little wonder and even though she was talking to someone, she also waved, wished us a good night and a good holiday, closely followed by (we assume her partner) who saw us as we went back past the restaurant, which makes you feel like they appreciate you or maybe they're just doing it thinking your more likely to go back another night.
Plaka
We only went to Plaka, as we were getting the boat across to Spinalonga it's the shortest crossing, (for where to park, see map bottom of page) and you can get tickets on the jetty, just opposite the car park down a small side street, however Plaka itself was really beautiful. It's not a big place and 9am on a Sunday waiting for the boat, we only found one cafe open for a drink, however returning from Spinalonga there was a lot more life and several restaurants with fantastic sea views.
We only went to Plaka, as we were getting the boat across to Spinalonga it's the shortest crossing, (for where to park, see map bottom of page) and you can get tickets on the jetty, just opposite the car park down a small side street, however Plaka itself was really beautiful. It's not a big place and 9am on a Sunday waiting for the boat, we only found one cafe open for a drink, however returning from Spinalonga there was a lot more life and several restaurants with fantastic sea views.
The drive to/from Plaka was also nice, with the road following the coastline.
Spinalonga
So following recommendations from reviews, we chose to get on the first boat leaving Plaka and it was the right decision, as when we arrived on the island, most of the tours were stood at the boat drop off point, so we headed straight off. Apart from a few others who travelled on the same boat as we did, there was nobody else around and as you can see from my photos, this meant I could get loads of pictures without anyone photo bombing.
There's one main route around the lower part of the island, which isn't even under foot all the way, but is generally flat and suitable for most people
So following recommendations from reviews, we chose to get on the first boat leaving Plaka and it was the right decision, as when we arrived on the island, most of the tours were stood at the boat drop off point, so we headed straight off. Apart from a few others who travelled on the same boat as we did, there was nobody else around and as you can see from my photos, this meant I could get loads of pictures without anyone photo bombing.
There's one main route around the lower part of the island, which isn't even under foot all the way, but is generally flat and suitable for most people
Once around the lower part, it then got interesting, as we headed up one of the tracks, from here on, it was clear it would not be suitable for anyone with walking difficulties, a lot of the terrain was rocky and steep, but the view from the top was worth the effort.
As we continued back towards the lower path, my wife had gone down some steps through the middle, whereas I noticed an area we'd not been, venturing on alone, I realised we'd missed quite a bit, a large area in the middle, connected by a few paths/steps. This area of the island gave you a better view of the buildings internally, although some areas were not safe to enter.
It's hard to put into words how to explain Spinalonga, there's a story behind it, which was of more interest to my wife than me and maybe to you, for me, just visiting this fantastic island was one of the highlights of our holiday in Crete and I would highly recommend the early start to make a visit.
Old Hersonissos
We only visited here one evening, as it was Greek night, where they have live music and dancers in the square, which was the best atmosphere we had when out having our evening meal. We'd booked at Sofas Taverna, the food was lovely, sadly we didn't have a great view of the dancers being sat on a back-row table, however that also meant we didn't get pulled up to join in.
What was strange was a lady came taking our photo whilst we were eating, with no explanation as to why or even asking our permission, there was also a young girl trying to “give” out roses.
The square where nearly all the restaurants are surrounding is nice, especially lit up on an evening, but otherwise it's only a small village.
We only visited here one evening, as it was Greek night, where they have live music and dancers in the square, which was the best atmosphere we had when out having our evening meal. We'd booked at Sofas Taverna, the food was lovely, sadly we didn't have a great view of the dancers being sat on a back-row table, however that also meant we didn't get pulled up to join in.
What was strange was a lady came taking our photo whilst we were eating, with no explanation as to why or even asking our permission, there was also a young girl trying to “give” out roses.
The square where nearly all the restaurants are surrounding is nice, especially lit up on an evening, but otherwise it's only a small village.
Mochlos
Driving to Mochlos was a bit of a risk, it had been recommended, but other than our drive back to Chania airport, it was our furthest drive. After leaving the main highway, the road down into Mochlos is winds its way down is quite steep and narrow in places.
Once at the bottom there are signs for the free parking, also shown on our map at the bottom of the page. Heading straight to the seafront it is a beautiful view and following the path around it leads you to a small beach, with restaurants surrounding it above.
The waters edge is quite rocky, but the water is, as usual in everywhere we’d been in Crete, crystal clear and access is easy in several places, despite the rocks and around the corner there's a slipway and a small beach. Whether the drive is worth it depends on what you are looking for, it's only small, a nice place to sit and enjoy the peace and beautiful view.
We stopped off for a late breakfast at The Rocks, not only has it got a beautiful outlook, but I had the best Yogurt with dry nuts and honey I’d had whilst in Crete. We wish we'd brought our towel etc to be able to sit on a rock and dip our feet, however having seen it, I’m not sure I’d want to make the long drive again.
Driving to Mochlos was a bit of a risk, it had been recommended, but other than our drive back to Chania airport, it was our furthest drive. After leaving the main highway, the road down into Mochlos is winds its way down is quite steep and narrow in places.
Once at the bottom there are signs for the free parking, also shown on our map at the bottom of the page. Heading straight to the seafront it is a beautiful view and following the path around it leads you to a small beach, with restaurants surrounding it above.
The waters edge is quite rocky, but the water is, as usual in everywhere we’d been in Crete, crystal clear and access is easy in several places, despite the rocks and around the corner there's a slipway and a small beach. Whether the drive is worth it depends on what you are looking for, it's only small, a nice place to sit and enjoy the peace and beautiful view.
We stopped off for a late breakfast at The Rocks, not only has it got a beautiful outlook, but I had the best Yogurt with dry nuts and honey I’d had whilst in Crete. We wish we'd brought our towel etc to be able to sit on a rock and dip our feet, however having seen it, I’m not sure I’d want to make the long drive again.
Ierapetra
Whilst in Crete and having made some time up on our original rough daily planner, we looked for some more places to visit, to make the most of our time in Crete. Ierapetra was another gamble due to the distance/travel and like Mochlos, but we did them on the same day.
So, it didn't pay off, as beautiful as the outlook is, the town wasn't interesting enough, more of a standard working town, with a seafront lined with restaurants at one end. At the other end there was more restaurants as a backdrop for the beach and an old fort. Personally, we wouldn't recommend it.
Whilst in Crete and having made some time up on our original rough daily planner, we looked for some more places to visit, to make the most of our time in Crete. Ierapetra was another gamble due to the distance/travel and like Mochlos, but we did them on the same day.
So, it didn't pay off, as beautiful as the outlook is, the town wasn't interesting enough, more of a standard working town, with a seafront lined with restaurants at one end. At the other end there was more restaurants as a backdrop for the beach and an old fort. Personally, we wouldn't recommend it.
Kritsa
The drive from Ierapetra to Kritsa was certainly a scenic one, driving through the mountains, however nowhere safe to stop and admire the view. The road weaved it's way through the mountains and was fairly narrow in many places, with one particular stretch being unpaved, hugging the mountain side, with no space for anyone to pass, luckily we didn't meet anyone in that section and we found out later, that particular section was apparently damaged in winter and is waiting to be repaired.
There is a small car park in the centre (marked on map at the bottom of the page), however there's not much there, just a few shops and cafe/restaurants, not worth the visit in our opinion.
The drive from Ierapetra to Kritsa was certainly a scenic one, driving through the mountains, however nowhere safe to stop and admire the view. The road weaved it's way through the mountains and was fairly narrow in many places, with one particular stretch being unpaved, hugging the mountain side, with no space for anyone to pass, luckily we didn't meet anyone in that section and we found out later, that particular section was apparently damaged in winter and is waiting to be repaired.
There is a small car park in the centre (marked on map at the bottom of the page), however there's not much there, just a few shops and cafe/restaurants, not worth the visit in our opinion.
Agia Nikolaos
We parked down on the harbour (shown on map at the bottom of the page), which was a perfect location to walk along the front in either direction.
The difference here compared to other coastal places we had visited, was the path along the front, was away from the restaurants/cafes, meaning you could have s nice peaceful walk and not been constantly asked to come in for food or a drink.
Heading up the streets into town, there was a nice feel and variety of shops, a little bit like Rethymno in places. There's a large lake, that acts as s marina for very small boats, as it's fed from the sea by a narrow inlet, where the road goes over the top. Walking past the restaurants surrounding the lake to the other side, there's a nice peaceful walkway and place to sit.
Back along the front, walking away from the large ships mooring point and where we had parked the car, there's s nice path to walk along with beautiful sea views, only spoilt by the cars going past.
Agios Nikolaos was one of my favourite places we visited, it has a nice seafront, plenty of restaurants and a nice selection of shops in town. It didn't feel overly commercialised for tourists and we weren't constantly being asked to go in and eat/drink everywhere we walked past. We weren’t pressurised in the shops either, unlike some places we visited like Chania, where you touch anything and they're on you like a salesperson giving you all the charm about how great it is or “looks good” on you. Recommend visiting!
We parked down on the harbour (shown on map at the bottom of the page), which was a perfect location to walk along the front in either direction.
The difference here compared to other coastal places we had visited, was the path along the front, was away from the restaurants/cafes, meaning you could have s nice peaceful walk and not been constantly asked to come in for food or a drink.
Heading up the streets into town, there was a nice feel and variety of shops, a little bit like Rethymno in places. There's a large lake, that acts as s marina for very small boats, as it's fed from the sea by a narrow inlet, where the road goes over the top. Walking past the restaurants surrounding the lake to the other side, there's a nice peaceful walkway and place to sit.
Back along the front, walking away from the large ships mooring point and where we had parked the car, there's s nice path to walk along with beautiful sea views, only spoilt by the cars going past.
Agios Nikolaos was one of my favourite places we visited, it has a nice seafront, plenty of restaurants and a nice selection of shops in town. It didn't feel overly commercialised for tourists and we weren't constantly being asked to go in and eat/drink everywhere we walked past. We weren’t pressurised in the shops either, unlike some places we visited like Chania, where you touch anything and they're on you like a salesperson giving you all the charm about how great it is or “looks good” on you. Recommend visiting!